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Trail details last updated 3/28/2017.
In the Pacific Northwest, reaching a mountain’s summit is often reserved for experienced alpine and rock climbers. That’s not the case for South Sister, Oregon’s third highest peak, come mid-summer however making it a popular goal for new and experienced hikers alike.
That’s not to say South Sister is easy! Rising to a height of 10,358′, ascending the mountain via the standard summer route means hiking up nearly 4,900 vertical feet over about 6 miles (12 miles r/t) with terrain ranging from dirt to rock to scree and even possibly snow. While that equates to a long day’s work, the reward is well worth the effort as the view from the top is literally a line of volcano peaks often stretching as far Mount Hood (and sometimes beyond.)
Warning: While South Sister is considered non-technical it is still a serious undertaking to a remote area. Water and shelter are scarce around the mountain and storms can bring severe conditions even in summer. Proper preparation and plenty of gear is required to safely attempt this hike.
Getting to South Sister’s Trailhead
Located about 45 minutes outside of Bend, Oregon, South Sister is the tallest of the Three Sisters mountain range (the mountains rank in order of size, age and technical difficulty with South being the youngest, biggest, and easiest while North is the smallest (by a bit), oldest and most technical.)
There are a few ways to access South Sister’s main trail but the most common is via the Devil’s Lake trailhead located along the Cascade Lakes Scenic Highway about 5 miles past Mount Bachelor Ski Resort. In winter and potentially much of Spring, snow keeps the road shutdown but as the summer months warm up the high desert terrain, that quickly melts out and the region becomes a hot spot for campers, boaters, hikers and all sorts of other adventuring. For winter & spring snow climbs, visit my South Sister Snow Climb Guide instead.
Reaching the trailhead is an easy drive that any updated navigation system should know about but if you won’t have one of those handy, simply proceed down the Cascade Lakes Scenic Hwy for about 27 miles until you see the Devil’s Lake Campground sign post and turn off on your left. Park at the end of the lot with your NW Forest Pass, NPS Pass or $5 / day cash or check payment.
Some people also choose to park off of the highway which is about 0.25 miles less of a hike though I don’t know the regulations or rules for doing so.
Camping and Other Nearby Facilities:
The Devil’s Lake trailhead shares a parking lot with Devil’s Lake Campground, a basic campground with 10 of scenic sites scattered around the lake. Given its location and the free pricetag, the campground is a popular stop for hikers and lake goers alike so you want to snag a space be sure to arrive early, otherwise there are more established campgrounds a few miles down the road. Other than the camping spots, you’ll find a Volunteer Staffed hut (in peak season only) and a couple of vault restrooms at the trailhead. There is no potable water at Devil’s Lake! The nearest faucet I’ve found is at Elk Lake Campground in the day use area right by the lake.
The private Elk Lake Resort (not to be confused with the adjacent Forest Service operated campground) has a restaurant with a small snack shop for any last minute burger or beer cravings you may have before or after the hike. Beyond that, there’s not a whole lot of supplies around so be sure to stock up in Bend before you head towards the mountain.
For the more adventurous types, camping on the mountain is permitted though there are many restrictions about where and what to review before you hike on out. You’ll find a number of stone shelters built up around the summit, a few at the lower lake and many suitable, low[er] impact, dirt sites at the mountain’s base as well. Water is limited with just a few lakes at lower elevations while melting snow or boiling up the glacial melt is possible on the top.
The Trail to South Sister’s Base:
Assuming most of the snow has melted away, the trail from Devil’s Lake to the base of the mountain is among the best paths you’ll find in the wilderness thanks to an awful lot of footsteps that go over it each day. Of course there are a few tricky spots so do pay attention as you go but for the most part, the hike (and it is certainly a hike) through the forest to the mountain is straight forward but with a lot of uphill.
To begin, look for the ranger hut and sign post and follow the footpath out towards the highway. You’ll have to cross over the road and the connecting path can hide its self but know that it’s well worn in so if you’re not sure, move a couple feet, you’ll know it when you see it.
After you cross the road the path will quickly take you to a small opening at the permit registration area. While there’s no cost and no limit for climbers at this point, you are required to fill out a wilderness permit to continue on up the mountain so take a moment to fill out the paperwork and review the various warnings and information signs along with the route map.
After securing your permit (drop off half, keep the other half in your pack), the trail heads right into the trees with an initially flat walk but that quickly starts to pick up. Soon you’ll find yourself on a series of long switchbacks as you navigate up the hill and towards the mountain to your North. This is the hardest part of the hike for me actually as my body adjusts to being awake and working without the benefit of a mountain view to inspire any motivation.
There’s at least 1,000′ of climbing to do to get through the forest over this 1.5 mile stretch which is described as grueling by a few other hike guides but eventually you’ll spot a large stone face which marks the near end of this stretch of the hike.
Emerging from the forest and into upper bounds of the treeline, the trail levels off for the most part and the mountain soon comes into view well ahead of you. Sign posts (continue straight ahead for the most part) are scatted along the wide and well beaten trail and while you’re just covering distance at this point as you close in on the mountain, it is a nice part of the hike with plenty of time to recover from the initial climb and prepare for what’s to come. I call this Hobbit Land as it reminds me of the description of the Hobbit’s first journey out of the shire and towards the doom ahead!
As the trees begin to disappear it should finally start to feel like the mountain is closing in and if you look closely you may just see parts of the route winding up to the top. Reaching the base is an ideal time to take that first good break of the day, check for hot spots, fully hydrate and scope out the start of the route up ahead.
Climbing Up the Mountain to the Summit
Transitioning from the fairly level trail and onto the mountain, the terrain quickly starts to pick up as you make your way up South Sister’s lower slopes.
While there are dirt stretches to the hike, much of the terrain will shift to ash, loose rock and at times bigger rocks or scree with the very likely possibility of at least a few snow hikes even well into summer (those are usually avoidable if you prefer, just look around for other routes.)
There is certainly a route up the mountain and it’s well worth following though it’s not exact and not so much a set trail as a regular wear path from the selections made by other hikers. Look for markers along the way to insure you’re on the right path while trying to stick to worn in sections and off of the plant life of course.
While the climb can be tiring, the grade is at least consistent for the first half of the climb and reveals more and more views. As you make your way up, be sure to turn around for a great perspective on Mount Bachelor as it grows smaller in the distance.
Around 9,000′ you’ll reach what should have been an obvious false summit and find yourself looking at a glacier pool below the Lewis Glacier. It’s one of the more stunning views of the day and often a cool spot between the shade of the mountain slopes and the breeze pushing over the snow, flat areas make for a great break spot before the final push.
From the lake, the trail cuts over to your left and ascends directly up the ridge to the summit crater now more or less visible above (the actual summit is across the crater and up a few more feet.) There tend to be a few paths up this section and your best bet is to find the uphill routes across firmer rock with more turns while saving the more direct and loose rock options for plunge stepping down. The softer the material under your feet, the harder is is to move.
As you transition from the narrow ridge into the slope of the upper mountain, the terrain becomes even looser and harder to move across. At times this is akin to Mount St. Helen’s ash but most of it is a combination of small rock and dirt and is almost impossible to keep out of your shoes though tall boots and gaiters certainly help (if you don’t have those, pull pants legs over your shoe cuffs and on the way down, just plan to dump out rocks a few times rather than constantly fighting it.)
Stepping onto the crater rim you still have some walking to do to reach the true summit but at over 10,000′, most of the hard work is behind you and the views of both the glacial bowl and the world around you should offset any final steps. Even in summer expect snow up here though as it melts out, it gets less stable and is generally walked around.
As you make your way over to the summit across the crater, you’ll pass stone shelters like the one shown above. These are the summit camp spots and can be quick elaborately designed and effective so if you find strong winds up top, consider taking your summit break inside one of the structures.
The final push to the true summit tends to follow a well defined path with the possibility of a little cascade rock scrambling if you like. By this point you should have a clear view down to Broken Top, Mount Bachelor, and up to the rest of the Three Sisters Mountains and beyond if it’s a clear day (if not, you probably don’t want to be on the top of South Sister in the first place, seriously, it’s not a good spot in a storm.)
After reaching the top of the mountain you should get a view like this if not better. It’s an incredible place to top out so before you make the long walk back, enjoy it.
When you’ve had your fill of views and enough of a rest, turn back the way you came. The steep upper slopes of the mountain can be intimidating at first but look for routes with deep, loose rock and let your heel plunge on in like you would do for snow walking and you’ll be able to move fast. The worst part of the descent is the flat stretch of the trail under the baking afternoon sun but even that quickly passes as you return to the forest, the road and your car.
What You Should Bring on Your Hike:
South Sister may be popular, it may be dirt, it may be near the city but make no mistake, it’s a real mountain and a rough spot to be depending for the help of others in.
For that reason I strongly suggest you pack well for your hike and bring ample supplies for a day that may be far longer than you anticipate (uphill takes time and so do the miles.) This means plenty of snacks (assume you’ll want 1 an hour plus a few spares), 4+ liters of water, spare layers for everyone (it can get cold / windy), sturdy shoes (boots if possible), blister kits, trekking poles, sunblock, sunglasses, a good map, med kit and all of your other 10 essentials are definitely essential.
Compared to some of the packs you’ll see on the trail this may feel like overkill but think about it, you’re going from 5,450′ to over 10,000′, the weather conditions between the two points can be worlds apart and any real issue from a twisted ankle to a fall onto sharp rock means an awful long wait for emergency responders to get to you. For this reason, you should also plan to start your hike as early as you can — cooler temps, more hours with daylight, it just makes for a better hike.
Quick Facts:
- Official Rating: Difficult
- Start point: Devil’s Lake Parking lot
- Distance: 12.5 miles R/T
- Duration: 7-11 hours R/T
- Climb: 4,900′ elevation gain
- Crowds: Very busy
- Recommended time: Early morning (beat the heat, hike in the light)
- Facilities: Vault restrooms at TH
- Water: No water at the TH or on the trail!
- Parking: Large parking lot
- Fees: Recreation Pass ($5, NW Forest Pass, NPS Annual Pass)
- Permits: Self-issued wilderness permits required (free but required)
Additional links:
- http://www.fs.usda.gov/recarea/deschutes/recreation/recarea/?recid=39000
- http://www.outdoorproject.com/adventures/oregon/hikes/south-sister-hike
- http://www.oregon.com/recreation/hike-south-sister
